The New Old World
January / February 2023
DISCOVER PLAVAC MALI
This month we invite you to discover Plavac Mali, and experience a grape that is synonymous, in many ways, with the region of Dalmatia.
JOS'S TAKE
Being the old world wine snob that I am, I was put off before even trying this grape - the genetic relationship to Zinfandel drawing immediate associations in my mind to the array of heavy, high in alcohol and often over-rip New World offerings that tend to be quite polarising.
Try it, however, I did, and what I discovered was quite surprising.
Terroir wines replete with perfumed aromas and Dalmatian herbal notes.
My preferred ones, more Nebbiolo in nature than I could ever have imagined.
Although examples do exist that are reminiscent of its new world cousins, in the hands of a skilled winemaker, and when sourced from a premium location, the results can be, dare I say, superb, and have certainly reminded me of the need to always keep an open mind.
THE GRAPE
Plavac Mali is an ancient variety, and the most widely planted red grape in Croatia. It thrives in mainland Dalmatia, the Pelješac peninsula, and the islands of Brač, Hvar, Korčula and Vis, where it loves the steep sandy terraces and south-facing coastal slopes that sweep down to the Adriatic Sea.
It is the renowned offspring of two old Croatian varieties - Tribidrag (genetically proven to be the original zinfandel) and the lesser known Dobričić.
The name Plavac Mali translates to "little blue" as a result of its small blue berries, but the wines are anything but! Plavac Mali wines are full bodied, hearty and opulent, with ripe notes of fig, plum and spice, pairing well with game and red meat dishes.
Plavac has always been the wine of the Dalmatian people - the farmers, the fishermen and everyone in between. Be it the height of summer, or the depths of winter, you will invariably see a glass of red in hand at the lunch or dinner table. Plavac runs in their blood, just as winemaking traditions run in their veins.
THE REGION
Home to the "Pearl of the Adriatic", Dubrovnik, Dalmatia is blessed with a dramatic and seemingly endless coastline, a truly Mediterranean climate, and a landscape where the sparkling sea embraces a wealth of stunning islands, that for many years have been the playground of Europe's elite.
A journey through Dalmatian wine country has all the ingredients to leave you breathless. With many of the vineyards located precariously on the cliff edges, sloping aggressively down to the sea, it is difficult to comprehend how the vines were first planted here, let alone the labour intensive process to tend for them and harvest the fruits of the earth. Be prepared for historic towns, extraordinary views, hidden coves rich with local oysters, and fabulous seafood around every bend of the spectacular coastal road - all washed down of course by an incredible selection of indigenous wine varieties.
Grapes were introduced to Dalmatia by the Greeks over 2,500 years ago. The steep cliffs, poor soils, hot summers and geographic proximity of the Dinaric Alps, created a micro-climate unsuitable for most agriculture, flora and fauna - but most importantly, extremely suitable for olives and for vines. Elevations reach up to 900m. Gradients are extreme. Slopes are skeletal and stony. This is rough, rugged and challenging terrain. This is the terrain where Plavac Mali thrives.
The climate is hot and dry. The land is rocky - dominated by dolomite and limestone. Vineyards are predominantly south facing, with maximum sun exposure, and are extremely well ventilated. In such a climate, vines are naturally protected from the perils of fungus and pests, eliminating the need for preventative treatment. Yields are low and quality is high. Winemakers here, work with nature, and not against it. One could say that, quite naturally, it is the ultimate terroir for low intervention viticulture.
THE WINES
This month's selection is comprised of 3 very different takes on this prized variety - a young and fresh perspective, a classic take from a legend of the Croatian wine scene, and a modern, elegant example from the premium appellation of Dingač.
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BURA PLAVAC
the winery & winemaker
The Bura family's history of winemaking dates back to the 1860's. Located on the Pelješac peninsula, they produce wines that reflect their passion for the rugged land on which they work, and which give a true expression of the terroir.
Looking for an insight into their pedigree?
They collaborated in the production of one of the wines served at Joe Biden's inauguration. A plavac mali of course...
VINEYARDS & vinification
Bura's vineyards are found in gravel terraces, rich in minerals, on south-facing slopes of up to 50 degrees. This location, the hot Mediterranean climate, the Adriatic Sea and local flora and fauna all play an important role in the resulting wine.
Unusual amongst Plavac wines, Bura Plavac is a fresh, young wine, with no wood influence. As a result, primary and secondary aromas of flowers, fresh fruit and minerals prevail.
TASTING NOTES
A fresh, vibrant, youthful example of Plavac Mali. Light-to-medium in body, with intense aromatics of blackcurrant, dark cherry, a touch of chalkiness, and Dalmatian herbs. The palate gives you those typical chalky and dusty Plavac Mali tannins combined with abundant fruit, minerality and a few spicy notes. This un-oaked style of Plavac Mali allows the fruit and earth notes to abound. It is harmonious, well balanced and easy drinking.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 14°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Grilled tuna steak, grilled meats, spicy roasted vegetables and young cheeses.
ZLATAN PLAVAC
the WINERY & winemaker
Zlatan Plenković is regarded by many as one of the founders of modern winemaking in Croatia. An entrepreneur and a risk taker, his story is one of rags to riches in the wine world. Having founded a family horticulture business in 1986, he was one of the first to rebel and produce wines under a private label in 1991 - an activity that, at that time, could have resulted in a prison sentence. Just 3 years later he received a top quality wine designation for his cellar, with international awards soon to follow, winemaker of the year recognition in 2005 and 2007, and a cult following.
Today, Zlatan Otok is in the capable hands of his children. They are proud to be leading the family winery into the modern era, with the abundant legacy of their father ever-present in their wine-making philosophy.
vineyards & vinification
The Sveta Nedjelja vineyards are located on the unique southern slopes of the island of Hvar, where Augustinian monks began growing grapes in the 16th century. The vineyards grow on steep slopes of up to a 40% incline, well exposed to both the sun and the all important stabilising influence of the cooling Adriatic Sea breezes.
Due to the thin layer of soil lying on top of a limestone rock base, the vines give a small yield, and the quality is therefore concentrated in a natural way, without human intervention. All work in the vineyard, including harvesting, is done by hand.
Zlatan Plavac is aged partially in large wooden barrels of mixed volumes (40 - 130 hl), and partially in stainless steel. This approach results in a wine of complexity and richness, but one that retains an evident freshness.
TASTING NOTES
The wine is dark ruby in color, with a rich and layered, pleasant, and deep aroma that has undertones of Dalmatian herbs, spices, minerality, saltiness and dark fruit. The wine is warm and comforting on the nose, which is typical of Zlatan’s wines and has given them a specific identity and cult-following around the world. On the palate, it is structured, balanced and possesses a refined, complex, and an exceptional presence followed by a long and persistent finish.
“Iconic Zlatan Plavac - a wine that has changed everything in the wine industry of Dalmatia. Although Dalmatia as a region was known for good wines earlier, the image of Plavac mali and consequent demands for it were so high only after the appearance of Zlatan Plenković.”
Saša Špiranec - journalist, wine writer and Decanter World Wine Awards judge.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 14 - 16°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Hard cheese, prosciutto, venison and red meat dishes and spicy grilled fish.
SAINTS HILLS DINGAČ
the WINERY & winemaker
Saints Hills Winery is a project built out of passion, by the husband and wife team of Ernest and Ivana Tolj. Native to Dalmatia's Adriatic coast, neither were born into winemaking families, but their love of wine and entrepreneurial spirit has led to the creation of a premium brand with vineyards in both Istria and Dalmatia.
Their quest for perfection led to an ongoing partnership with world renowned oenologist Michel Rolland. Ernest, with Michel's guidance and influence, continues to expand their wine portfolio, and modernise and innovate their production techniques.
Their pedigree and international reputation continues to grow, including in North America, with Wine Enthusiast heaping high praise (and high scores) on their wines, year in, year out.
vineyards & vinification
The Sv. Lucia vineyard is located in beautiful Dingač - Croatia's first-ever appellation - established and protected in 1961 - and widely recognized as the premium location for the Plavac Mali grape.
The vineyards are by their nature low yield, they lie on very steep terrain and experience triple insolation (direct from the sun, and reflected by both the sea and stone). The soil is rich in limestone and filled with quartz, which is quite specific to the precise location.
In the words of the Saints Hills team - the micro-climate is a "true indulgence for the vine".
Harvested entirely by hand, Dingač ferments in wooden vats both large and small. It ages for 18-24 months in French oak barriques, and it is left to rest in the bottle for at least 6 months before release to the market.
TASTING NOTES
"Made from 100% Plavac Mali, this wine is dark garnet in the glass, with aromas of cassis, black plum, lavender and slate. It is well balanced and has nice weight on the palate, offering flavors of smoked charcuterie, pomegranate and dark berries. The finish is bright, with pleasantly grippy tannins. Drink now - 2031."
Jeff Jenssen, Wine Enthusiast (94 pts)
"Dingac is the premium Croatian appellation for the native plavac mali variety in the central southern Peljesac Peninsula of the Dalmatian coast. And this is a beautifully refined and finessed, elegant example, ripe and supple at 14% alcohol declared, supported by lively natural acids. It's fermented in both large and small wooden vats and aged for nearly two years in the latter, lending undeniable polish and sheen. The stark, stony soils of the region result in a certain angularity and energy but without any hard edges, and the concentration on offer from these low-yielding wines is exceptional. It's brimming with character and personality, as well as winemaking competence and acumen. Length, depth and complexity are terrific.
Drink or hold a decade."
John Szabo, MS (93 pts)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 16° C. Decant half an hour + before consumption.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Game meats, grilled red meats, and aged / mature cheeses.