The New Old World
November / December 2024
THE WINEMAKER
Saints Hills Winery is a project built out of passion, by the husband and wife team of Ernest and Ivana Tolj. Native to Dalmatia's Adriatic coast, neither were born into winemaking families, but their love of wine and entrepreneurial spirit has led to the creation of a premium brand with vineyards in both Istria and Dalmatia, and has resulted in wine becoming an integral part of their lives.
Their quest for perfection, also led to a partnership with world renowned oenologist Michel Rolland who remains an integral part of the winemaking team. With his guidance and influence they continue to modernize and innovate, and are one of a relatively small number of wineries in the region to use concrete fairly extensively in their cellars, both in the production of their whites and rosé, but also in select reds to maintain freshness.
Their approach to their trade can be better understood by the following quote. When we asked Ivana Tolj what she wanted people to know about the Tolj family winery, she answered "People need to know nothing about the winery. The impression is in the bottle."
THE WINERY
Superb locations are one of the secrets behind their high quality wines, including their Sv. Lucia vineyard in Dingač - Croatia's first appellation and the ultimate terroir for growing Dalmatia's flagship red - Plavac Mali. Low yield vines, steep terrain, triple insolation (sun, sea, and stone), and quartz rich soil, combined with cooling sea breezes create the perfect Dalmatian micro-climate for Croatia's indigenous varietals.
The Sv. Roko vineyard is located at the very root of Pelješac peninsula, slightly north of the place where it becomes mainland, in the beautiful Komarna region. The soil here is rich in limestone, and large temperature differentials between day and night create a real strength of character in the wines.
Their Pošip vineyards are located in Cara, in the heart of Korčula, the ancestral home of this beautifully saline coastal variety. All in all nature was more than kind to Saints Hills: the birthplaces of their wines offer outstanding conditions for viticulture, at the same time being arguably one of the most beautiful places on earth. The Saints Hills team do not take this privilege lightly. They feel obliged to give back through winemaking, constant learning, and searching for perfection.
THE WINES
This month we are excited to re-introduce you to the flagship varieties of Dalmatia - the sun-kissed white pošip grape, and two takes on red Plavac Mali, the pride of the region.
POSH
JOS'S TAKE
Like all great pošips, this wine transports me to the sun-kissed Adriatic coast, and rekindles the yearning for a platter of freshly caught and shucked oysters.
Well structured and briny, with great depth and a deliciously long finish.
POSH
Vineyards are located in Cara, on the island of Korčula - pošip's ancestral home.
Grapes are hand picked and double sorted to ensure optimum quality.
Fermentation takes place in 100% concrete tanks, partially in egg-shaped tanks, for 6 to 9 months.
POŠIP
100% Pošip, Dalmatia's flagship white.
Indigenous to the island of neighbouring Korčula, pošip is a very adaptable and terroir driven grape.
Wines are medium to full bodied, rich and yet fresh, with herbal, mineral and saline notes - a perfect companion to seafood.
TASTING NOTES
"Made with Posip from the island of Korcula, this wine is almost clear in the glass. Aromas of white peach, jasmine, white chocolate and a touch of lemon thyme set the stage for Bartlett pear, nectarine, orange blossom, lemongrass and sage-leaf flavors. A soft floral note endures on the taste buds."
Mike DeSimone, Wine Enthusiast (93 points)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Serve chilled at 10 - 12°C.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Seafood and all white fish dishes. Oysters highly recommended!
BLACK
JOS'S TAKE
A classic take on Plavac Mali - full bodied, bursting with black fruit aromas and Mediterranean herbs. The spicy, peppery finish sets it apart for me ....
BLACK
Black Plavac Mali is a blend of grapes from two Dalmatian vineyards: Sv. Roko in Komarna (mainland, coastal vineyards) and Sv. Lucia in Dingač (Pelješac peninsula).
It is aged in a combination of large wooden tanks, concrete tanks, and small barrique barrels.
It is released to market after 24 months of aging.
PLAVAC MALI
100% Plavac Mali.
An ancient variety, it is the most widely planted red grape in Croatia. It thrives in mainland Dalmatia, the Pelješac peninsula, & the islands of Brač & Hvar.
Plavac Mali wines are full bodied, hearty and opulent, with ripe notes of fig, plum and spice, pairing well with game and red meat dishes.
TASTING NOTES
Black Dalmatian is a dry red dominated by aromas of dark berry fruit and plums with Mediterranean herbal notes such as mint, basil and oregano. The palate is layered and complex with notes of vanilla, dark chocolate, plum and black pepper, with a long and persistent finish.
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
16 - 18°C. Decant for one hour prior to serving.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Pair with grilled meats and aged cheeses.
SV. ROKO
JOS'S TAKE
Concrete tanks are a fairly rare commodity in Croatian cellars, and I love the use of them here, both in the fermentation and more importantly, aging of this wine. The freshness that this imparts is a real difference maker for me, in what is typically a rich, heavy, and full bodied wine. It is this freshness that entices me back for another glass, despite the fact that my current preference is for lighter bodied wines. An old world red with broad appeal for sure.
SV. ROKO
Grapes are carefully selected and handpicked, from the Sv. Roko vineyard in Komarna, mainland Dalmatia.
Fermentation takes place 50% in 60hl concrete tanks, 50% in 60hl wooden vats.
It is aged for 12-14 months, 20% in new French oak barrels, and partially in concrete, to preserve freshness.
PLAVAC MALI
Indigenous to Croatia, Plavac Mali is the renowned offspring of 2 ancient Croatian varieties:
Tribidrag (proven through genetic analysis to be the original zinfandel) and Dobričić.
It's name translates as "the little blue".
This is quite deceptive, as the grapes produce powerful, full bodied wines.
TASTING NOTES
"Inky garnet in the glass, this wine has a gorgeous nose of cassis, blackberry, thyme and lavender. A layer of sleek tannins is wrapped around flavors of purple fig, raspberry, milk chocolate, dried Mediterranean herbs and a hint of espresso. The smooth finish is marked with soft notes of butterscotch and orange zest."
Mike DeSimone, Wine Enthusiast (94 points)
SERVING RECOMMENDATIONS
Best served at 16 - 18 ° C. Decant for one hour prior to serving.
PAIRING RECOMMENDATIONS
Rosemary-herbed lamb, beef tenderloin, grilled meats.